patek philippe calatrava ref 2555 waterprof

A quiet evolution of the iconic Ref. 96, with a more robust technical core There are models in Patek Philippe’s history that mark a technical and cultural milestone more than just being another numbered reference. The Ref.?2555 is one of them. At first glance, it seems discreet, with its 32 mm yellow gold case. But this Calatrava hides some structural choices and proportions that make it unique. Often described as an “evolution” of the famous Ref.?96 — not in terms of aesthetics, but in functionality: the case is water-resistant, with a screw-down back, which was quite rare at the time (we’re in the 1950s), especially for a dress watch. It houses the manual-wind caliber 27SC with central seconds. An interesting choice at a time when Patek was balancing between elegance and sturdiness. The dial is clean, with applied indexes and baton hands. Nothing flashy. Yet, the watch radiates confidence and solidity. A truly rare bird To this day, fewer than 40 examples of the Ref.?2555J in yellow gold are known to exist — numbers that speak for themselves. This places it in a quiet niche of rarity, far from the spotlight of more iconic references. It’s not a watch that tries to impress at first sight. But over time, as you observe it, you begin to understand why it matters. A transitional choice This reference is also interesting when viewed in its historical context: a time when watchmaking was slowly shifting from ultra-thin, city-focused designs to more practical models — watches that could genuinely be worn every day. The Ref.?2555 reflects that moment in transition.