Ultra-Rare Breguet in Platinum,Perpetual Calendar Ref 3617 with extract from archive

To combine a perpetual calendar and a chronograph within a single case is one of the most demanding challenges in mechanical watchmaking. The Breguet Reference 3617, introduced in the early 1990s, resolves that challenge with a clarity and elegance that is entirely characteristic of the manufacture founded by Abraham-Louis Breguet in 1775. This example, in 950 platinum from 1997, is the rarest and most coveted configuration of the reference: platinum production was limited to a small fraction of total output, and examples in this metal are seldom encountered on the market. It is accompanied by the original Breguet box.

Key Specifications

Reference 3617PT/13/2VU
Year 1997
Case 950 Platinum, 39 mm
Dial Silvered, hand-guilloché: clous de Paris centre, basket weave on subdials, wave pattern on moonphase
Movement Manual wind, Lemania Cal. 2310 (also used in Patek Philippe Ref. 3970)
Functions Perpetual calendar (day at 9, date at 3, month and leap year at 12), moonphase, chronograph
Accessories Original Breguet box

Collector's Note

The Lemania Caliber 2310 at the heart of this watch is one of the most respected manually wound chronograph movements ever produced. Its presence in the Breguet 3617 places this watch in distinguished company: the same movement powers the Patek Philippe Reference 3970, one of the most celebrated perpetual calendar chronographs of the twentieth century. In the Breguet, it is decorated and finished to the manufacture's own standards, with the perpetual calendar module integrated with a precision and legibility that reflects the direct lineage from Abraham-Louis Breguet's own calendar work of the early nineteenth century.

The hand-guilloché dial is executed in three distinct patterns across its surface: the classic clous de Paris hobnail motif at the centre, a basket weave pattern on the chronograph subdials, and a wave pattern on the moonphase indication. Each pattern is applied by hand on a rose engine lathe, a process that cannot be replicated by machine and that gives every Breguet guilloché dial a unique character. In platinum, with the cool grey tone of the metal complementing the silvered dial, the result is a watch of exceptional visual coherence and depth.

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In stock
Breguet
3617PT132VU
1997
Argente
533
39mm
10940XUZMMUC
chronograph perpetual calendar
Platinum
Yes

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